Before we finally start our way back home, we head for the archipelago southwest of the island of Öja (with the famous Landsort lighthouse, see below). The most famous island there is Harstena, with its 200-year-old houses lined up along the quaint sound, which is now a popular destination for touristy day trips. One of the houses belongs to the last active fisherman, from whom U. can get hold of half a smoked eel.