Our next destination again has an eventful history: it is a small, formerly nameless island in Furusundsled, the busy coastal fairway to Stockholm. During the great cholera epidemics of 1834-1866, the cholera dead were buried on this island. Since then it has been called “Cemetery Island” (Kyrkogårdsön). In 1914, the Swedish Parliament decided to build an outer line of fortifications around Stockholm to replace the old Vaxholm fortress, which dated back to the 16th century. The island of Siarö was to play a special role, but it was then decided to establish a fortified artillery position (“Siaröfortet”) on the unused cemetery island to the south of it. Today there is a youth hostel, a café, a sauna, various sheep and chickens – and for one night SY Blue Layla is moored here, well defended against the swell of the large ferries in the Furusund fairway.
In order to get from Arholma to the Stockholm archipelago, however, we first have to head against the south-westerly winds in initially unfriendly conditions and dodge numerous ferries, tugs, cargo ships, sailors, surfers, mini archipelagos and shoals:
SY Blue Layla’s diesel tank is refilled on the island of Furusund. From now on, the weather is bound to get better!
Kyrkogårdsön.
Kyrkogårdsön (“Cemetery Island”).