To someone coming from the sea, Ventspils presents itself as a large industrial harbour nestled in a dreamlike landscape – endlessly long beaches and even more endless, seemingly untouched forests. The old town around the Livonian order’s castle is for the most part nicely restored, in front of the main Lutheran church people enjoy themselves in the afternoon with coffee, cake and an early beer; the market square is bustling with people. As the new crew is about to arrive from Riga, U. gets the boat (moored in the old fishing harbour) back into shape.